SWORD AND KNIFE CARE
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STAINLESS STEEL BLADE CARE
Most of Kit's blades are made from Japanese milled 420J2 stainless steel. For general display in air conditioned environments, stainless is relatively maintenance free and requires little care. Stainless steel means that it is stain and rust resistant, but it is not stain or rust proof if not treated cared for correctly. It is best to keep away from humid or environments or places that are not humidity and temperature controlled, like storing in a garage. If the blade becomes wet, thoroughly dry it and coat with oil before storage. Occasionally stainless steel sword blades will become dull looking from light tarnish if stored improperly. The best compound I have found to polish and clean stainless steel is Metal Glo polishing paste. It not only removes practically anything from the blade surface, but it chemically removes carbon from the top surface of the steel, and micro polishes as it is rubbed. Even polishing a new blade with it will make the blade look better. For regular maintenance, Kit recommends coating blades with a light coat of choji (used in Samurai sword care kits) or mineral oil (found at grocery or pharmacies), every few months. Light machine oil is another option, but do not use machine oils or oils with detergent or chemicals in them. Oil collects dust, so if you do not want to clean and re-apply with oil every few months then another great option is a wax sealant. A good car wax will suffice to coat and protect the blade, or a professional sealant like Renaissance Wax. If your blade does become badly tarnished or even rusted from a poor environment, Metal Glo polish will help, but deeply penetrating rust may need to be polished out. See a professional to refinish the blade if you do not want to attempt this yourself.
CARBON STEEL BLADE CARE
Carbon steel by its nature is very prone to discoloration and corrosion and requires special care. As a rule, you should avoid touching these blades. For regular maintenance Kit recommends coating carbon steel blades in a light coat of choji (used in Samurai sword care kits) or mineral oil (found at grocery or pharmacies), every few months, and always wipe the blade after touching it to prevent the oil from your skin tarnishing the blade. When re oiling a blade, always wipe off the old oil before re-applying a new coating. Never store these blades in damp or humid environments, and if the blade becomes wet, thoroughly dry it and coat with oil.
HANDLE AND HILT CARE
Most of the metal hilt parts on Kit's swords are already coated with a sealant to protect them. Periodically wiping them down with a damp cloth is all the maintenance they require. Do not clean with detergents or household cleaners. They could damage the protective coating and allow the finish to tarnish. Leather wrapped grips should be cleaned with a good leather cleaner, but only if they have become soiled or stained by accumulation of natural body oils by handling. Otherwise, a periodic wipe down with a damp cloth is all that is required for routine cleaning. If the metal hilt parts become tarnished or rusted due to poor storage or long exposure wet or humid envoronments, it is almost impossible to restore them to their original state. Lightly polishing them with fine abrasive pads or papers may help, but this will also remove some the plated surface treatments, so use caution.
Kit's wood wall and table top displays are coated with a clear sealant. A periodic wipe down with a damp cloth is all that is required for routine cleaning and removing dust. Do not clean with detergents or household cleaners. They could damage the protective coating. Spray on household wood polish is acceptable and should not harm the finish.
SHEATH AND SCABBARD CARE
Nylon sheaths, for Kit's throwers and axes, can be cleaned with a damp cloth, or if they become extremely soiled can be washed with water and soap. Let air dry. Leather scabbards should be kept away from damp or wet environments. These should also only be cleaned with a damp cloth. If the leather cracks over time if can be repaired or maintained with mink oil or leather cream (not polish). Follow the instructions for the specific product you intend to use. Some scabbard parts are genuine leather and some recycled leather, depending on the construction, so always test a small area first before treating.
BLADE TANG CONSTRUCTION
STAINLESS STEEL BLADE TANGS AND BLADE EDGES
First and foremost, keep in mind that Kit's fantasy swords and knives with stainless steel blades are collectibles, not intended to be fully functional combat ready swords. Most of these are sold with unsharpened edges for a reason. While stainless steel will hold up to some abuse, and the blades can be sharpened, these are not recommended for martial arts practice or live combat. The tangs on these swords extend 1/2 to 3/4 into the handles where they taper to a threaded tail into the pommel. The blades are secured to the handle by the pommel threaded onto this tail, or a nut threaded to the tail, then the pommel attached to the nut. By design, these swords are not made to be disassembled.
Some people prefer to sharpen their sword blades, but we do not recommend this for many of Kit's fantasy blades. Some of the curved and hooked blade shapes would be very dangerous to sharpen, and improperly sharpening the blade can cause discoloration and ruin the temper if the blade becomes too hot when using power driven grinding wheels.
CARBON STEEL AND DAMASCUS STEEL BLADE TANGS
Kit's carbon steel or Damascus sword blades feature a tang that tapers all the way to the pommel where it forms a threaded tail. The pommel, or nut sleeved into the pommel, is tapped, threaded and secured to this tail. Kit's carbon steel bladed samurai swords have full tangs secured the traditional method by a wood dowel running through the grip and tang.
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